Excursions

EXCURSION TO THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES AND RONDA CITY

Itinerary nº 1. Access from the Western Costa del Sol

From the town of San Pedro de Alcántara, at 9 kilometres from Marbella, is the C-339 road which ascends the mountain area by the sides of the Sierra Palmitera. Taking this road is like permanently looking over an open balcony. At first, you see the coastal scenery and as you go on towards the Genal valley you always have the mountain as a travelling companion. On the highest part of the journey, when the bear rocks flank the road, there are two large crossed iron beams which are there as a monument in memory of the works made in order to facilitate this access. This symbol is a post which should be noted as it augurs that the entrance to the natural park of the Sierra de las Nieves is near. Further ahead, between the kilometric points 14 and 15, near the Llano de Almagén is the red cross post, and a kilometre further is the entrance to the park.

If you make the journey by bus (which can reach the Quejigales refuge, so long as it is not too large), it is best not to enter directly as the manoeuvres, apart from being difficult, can be dangerous as the entrance is on a curve. It is best to go on to the restaurant El Navasillo, where you can stop for breakfast and try the local bread (pan cateto) with olive or pork oil. Coming back from this restaurant, the entrance is much more comfortable.

The pathway to the natural park is a dirt track, but it is in good shape. From the road up to the Fuenfria brook the pathway wanders among holm oaks which become denser the deeper we enter. The densness increases once we cross the brook and the fence we cross indicates that we have entered the Nava de San Luis reserve, once famous for its hunting sprees and in which one can still see some specimens of mountain goat, boar and deer.

The Nava de San Luis is a small plain with a farm which bears its name, and is used as a lobby to the Sierra de las Nieves. Here the prairies of the farm, surrounded by holm-oaks, join the Parauta fir grove which ascends the sides of the Alcojana hill presenting the visitor with the first outstanding scenery of the excursion. The average height of 1,000 metres at which we stand begins to ascend as we continue our journey.

The winding pathway ascends among diminishing small forests and the scenery is left at the feet of the visitor in deep cliffs or in the smooth plain of the Nava de San Luis.

The rocks take over the scenery on either side of the pathway, until, past 1,300 metres altitude, a few odd firs appear which announce the closeness to our destination: the Felix Rodriquez de la Fuente refuge, (once the Cortijo de los Quejigales).

In a depression, at the foot of the Sierra de las Nieves, is the farmhouse, which in its day, was recuperated by ICONA and is now directed by the Agencia de Medio Ambiente (environment agency) which gives shelter to visitors of the area who book in advance. The area is so popular that you should book one or two months in advance (depending on the time of year), as well as having to comply to certain requirements in order to use it.

Near the farm, there are camping installations, a well equipped eating area and a small parking lot.

In a one day excursion, if you had planned arriving at this point at around 11a.m., you must programme your ascent to the Puerto de los Pilones through the Cañada del Cuerno track. It is a hard course for those not accustomed or those who don’t exercise much, but the effort is worth while.

The track ascends through the most spectacular fir forest one can see, with specimens which can be hundreds of years old and which form densities which make the shade of the glen even more startling. Over 1,500 metres altitude, the forest begins to clear and a singular vegetation forming a cushion, known as "cojines de monja" announces that we are arriving at Puerto de los Pilones. There again, nature shows all its splendour with a beautiful landscape of high mountain, presided in the background by the Torrecilla peak, which with 1,918 metres is the highest in the province and by the Cerro de la Alcazaba it looks out like a great watchtower towards the coast. The smooth lands between the Puerto de los Pilones and the Torrecilla, shelter one of the most singular forests one can contemplate; the Quejigal de Tolox. Centenary gall oaks, roaming the mountains, have remained as honourable witnesses of other times, enduring the harshness of the environment. If one has the opportunity of seeing this landscape with snow, don’t miss it. It is an unforgettable memory.

To return to the refuge you can go the way you came or by the track which leaves the Puerto de los Pilones. This way is longer but is advisable as all along it there are interesting landscapes for the extraordinary panoramas one can contemplate. Once we return to the refuge we will have used up two and a half to three hours and it will be a good time to have lunch on the way to Ronda in any of the restaurants before getting there.

You need more that one day to enjoy all this city’s attractions, but one afternoon in the mountains can contribute to the first contact between those attractions and the visitor.

If you come by bus, it is convenient to know that it is forbidden for these vehicles to drive through the old part of the city. Therefore, you must start your visit in either the northern or southern area. The southern area is recommended as the bus can take you right up to the Puerta de Almocábar of the Ronda wall, whereas by the north there is a long walk from where the bus can park up to the old part of town.

The Puerta de Almocábar was built in the 13th century and was the entrance to the Alcazaba and the city. Next to this door there is a stone basin fountain which spouts high quality fresh water, which will help us embark on our walk around the city. We are not going to enter through this door as we will continue the street which surrounds the wall. As we ascend the hill we will see the monumental church of the Espiritu Santo built in the 15th century by the Catholic Kings to commemorate the conquest of the city. It is Isabelline and was built by the architect, Pons Sorolla. Continuing along Armiñan street, to the right there is a metal fence with stone pillars from where you can see parts of the wall; further ahead we will pass the back facade of the town hall, which we will visit on the way back, and next we will arrive a small square where we will see the interesting Alminar de San Sebastian, built in the 14th century as part of the mosque which later became the church of San Sebastian. From this square we will go down the Marquez de Salvatierra street until we reach the palace which has the same name. This palace with Arab origins was built in the 18th century, to which time the front of the main facade belongs.

Close by to this palace, round the corner of the Santo Domingo street, there is a small lookout from where you can see various monuments from this side of the city of Ronda. The closest, almost next to the lookout, is the Arco de Felipe V, built in the 18th century, with double ashlar work and trapezium-shaped attic and a small curved pediment, completed by three pinnacles. It has a shield in the centre and stone chair next to it, which is known as the Sillón del Moro. The silhouette of this arch has been illustrated in numerous engravings of the War of Independence and has been used as the decor in various films about this stage of history in Ronda. In front of the Arco de Felipe V is the Puente Viejo, also known as the Puente Arabe, whose origins are debatable.

The first historical reference we have of it is at the end of the 15th century, when it is reconstructed after the conquest of Ronda by the Catholic kings. Later, it has been the object of various reforms, the last being in the 20th century, in which balconies were opened on the parapet over the river and, it was paved. Very close to this bridge there is another smaller one, the Puente de Las Curtiderías, also known as the Puente Romano, as the tradition relates that is was built by the Arabs over another one which existed at that time. Near this bridge, at the left margin of the river, are the Baños Arabes (17th - 14th century). It is a precinct, closed by a wall of blind arches and has a structure which collects water with a waterwheel which carries the water from an aqueduct up to the bath’s boiler. In the walls of the city nearby these baths are the Arab doors.

From the previously mentioned lookout, we will continue our visit of the city going up Santo Domingo street, a steep and stony street, in which, apart from the Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra, we will find the Casa del Rey Moro, an 18th century building, built on an old Arab house, which conserves the passage/mine which descends to the river Guadalevín through the Tajo rock. In its interior there are various rooms which could have military bearings, or according to some, could be baths. The most valuable part of this house, which today has been converted into a furniture store-room, is the garden, carried out by the architect Forestier at the beginning of the 20th century.

Up the Santo Doming hill we come out to the Armiñán street and there we find another monumental building, the Convent of Santo Domingo, 16th century, actually being restored. Situated in the old boundary of the city, over the Tajo, it was founded by the Catholic kings and later was used by the Tribunal de la Inquisición. It has Gothic, Mudejar and Renaissance elements.

The door of this convent opens up towards the Puente Nuevo, a spectacular feat of civil engineering which joined the old part of Ronda with the Mercadillo suburb in the 18th century. This bridge is a landmark in the history of the city, allowing the urban development towards the Dehesa del Mercadillo.

On the other side of the Puente Nuevo, the city of Ronda offers the visitor streets, squares and gardens of notable interest, such as the pedestrian precinct Vicente Espinel, popularly known as Bola street, or the casino square or, finally, the Parque Alameda del Tajo with a lookout over the "caldera" which extends to the foot of the impressive Tajo.

A building which must be visited in this part of the city is the 18th century Bullfighting Ring. It is one of the oldest in Spain and was projected by the same architect as the Puente Nuevo, José Martín Aldehuela. Inside, a bullfighting museum has been installed, in which you can see documents, apparel and instruments to do with bullfighting, of great interest to tauromachy fans.

To continue our visit to the city of Ronda, we must return to the Puente Nuevo and go into the old part of town. Here we turn off at Tenorio street (first on the right) and on reaching a triangular plateau, turn left towards Diego José de Cadiz (or San Juan de Letrán) street where we will first find the school las Esclavas and further ahead, the Casa del Gigante, a 13th century building, which was reformed in the 17th and 18th century but which conserves the typology of the Granada and northafrican house from the Arabian epoch in the peninsula. Its name comes from one of the figures in its walls. From the Casa del Gigante (Giants House) we come to a square with the same name, where there is another outstanding building, the Santa Teresa school.

From here you follow the San Juan Bosco street and turn off to the right onto Sor Angela de la Cruz street and from there into the square where you will find the 15th century Palacio de Mondragón, possibly the most representative civil building in the city, in which you can appreciate various architectural styles: the Renaissance (first courtyard), late Gothic (second courtyard) and the Mudejar (third courtyard) with great decorative richness.

From the Palacio de Mondragón, following Manuel Montero street, we come out into Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, totally surrounded by monumental buildings. The first we come across is the church of the Caridad, 16th century, ancient chapel, public school, Escuela de Artes y Oficios de la Sociedad del Formento de Industrias Clásicas, Escuela de Artes y Oficios de Alfonso XIII and Convento de las Hermanitas de la Cruz. Close to this church is the Santa Isabel de los Angeles convent, a 16th century building which presents abundant Mudéjar elements. On the same pavement as the church of the Caridad, is the church of Santa Maria de la Encarnación la Mayor, built over a 13th century mosque, which conserves Mihrab remains and some reliefs. This mosque was built over the ruins of a Roman temple. The first Christian works date from the 15th century when the city was recently taken by Christian troops. The tower conserves the old Mudejar style minaret structure and together with the facade offers a beautiful complex.

The buildings of Los Juzgados (the court) and the Cuartel de Milicias (the militia headquarters) close the western side of the square. The latter building built in the 18th century is the actual town hall.

If you still have time after this course, which isn’t yet complete but has taken us to the most representative spots, you mustn’t miss the opportunity of seeing the offer of handmade furniture, lamps and other sumptuary objects in the numerous shops all along the way from Armiñán street to the bullfighting ring. Although perhaps this can be left to the next visit which you surely will be planning at the end of this one.